Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
